The discovery of a dyed cotton fabric dating backside to the Indus Valley civilization shows that the art of dyeing with the use of mordants was well
known to the Indian dyers 5,000 years ago. This form of dyeing was responsible for making India famous all over the world for its dyed and printed fabrics. Printed fabrics have also been found in Fostat, the old Cairo City. Recent excavations of Red Sea ports have also brought out a greater range of printed textile. These date back to 800 A.D. There technique and design point to western Indian origin. Indian dyers had mastered the art of dyeing with quick colors from ancient times whereas in Europe this was unknown. Indian dyers were considered magicians by travelers, who saw them putting a white cloth into a light liquid of indigo dye and when the fabric appeared from the dye bath it was still white. It was only when it came into contact with oxygen and it became blue. Multiple immersions and exposure to the air enriched the shade. People felt this was a magical transformation. Printed fabrics were in common use throughout North India, as well as for home employ. They also became important export items.
Direct printing is practised all over India where a bleached cotton or silk fabric is printed with the help of carved wooden blocks.
The batik technique is a development from this form of resist printing. Here the fabric is painted with molten wax and then dye in cold dyes after which the cloth is washed inhot water. This fallout in the melting of the wax and emergence of the patterns cloth. The effect of the resist technique in printing is soft and subdued and the outlines are not so clearly defined in the case of the painted batik.
The important centers for hand printing in Rajasthan are Jaipur, Sanganer, Bagroo, Pali and Barmer and many others. In Gujarat state, Mandvi, Dhamadka, Mundra, Anjar, Jamanagar and Surendernagar, Jaitpur, Ahmedabad, Vadodara and deesa are important centers of printing. In Kuch, printing on silk and cotton was perfected a extensive moment ago. The local handloom satin, known as gajji, was used for printing ordhnis, chaddars and yardage material for skirts. Farrukhabad, in Uttar Pradesh is an important printing centre. Nearly 15 different tree-of-life patterns have been evolved here and even today large wooden blocks for printing a five-foot long tree-of-life with foliage, flowers, birds and animals are available with the printer.
The kalamkari technique was used mostly in the large painted hangings used in temples, which depicted scenes from the Ramayana and the Mahabharata.
The printed sarees are an extremely versatile garment. Printed sari is the traditional outfit for women in Bangladesh. It simply consists of a single, rectangular piece of material, five to six yards in length, accommodating any size. The style, color, and texture of this material vary according to region and caste. Different draping styles convey the status, age, occupation, region, and/or religion of the wearer.
In printed Saree, avoid big prints, as it gives a gaudy and a huge look. Delicate print on a printed sari, gives a delicate look. Dark skin color women should generally buy dark colours like maroon, green, dark pink etc. Red/yellow printed sarees are hot this season. Lehariya saree is yet another option of printed sari. Lehariya sarees/saris are catching the eyes of young girls. Saree dealers in India are getting more demand of printed sarees.
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